rubbers – 360TT Blog

Blackout by Sauer & Tröger: it kills your opponent's pace

Mon, 26 Oct 2026 21:00:00 -0300

Irritatingly slow. That is what I thought most during my 45 days with the Blackout on my backhand. The ball comes back so slowly that it looks like it won’t clear the net, and very often that is exactly what takes the opponent apart.

This is the blog’s first review, a mini review with my impressions from using it, no lab measurements. I’ll start with the most important thing: 360TT sells the product tested here. The Blackout is made by Sauer & Tröger, whose official distributor we are in Brazil, and the rubber I tested was supplied by S&T itself for testing. That changes nothing in what follows. Here you will read the good and the bad, no beating around the bush. It is common to see reviews that only praise what the shop itself sells. The idea here is different: to tell how it went, including what didn’t work, who this rubber is for and, perhaps most importantly, who it is not for!

I was the tester: I play a classic style, close to the table, and I used the Blackout on my backhand for about 45 days, on a DHS 08X blade with a black Hurricane 3 NEO 37° on the forehand. That meant training sessions and some doubles against first- and second-division players from Minas Gerais. After that, I stopped using it. The reason is further down, and it is not a flaw in the rubber. I never meant to keep it anyway; I just wanted to test it.

TL;DR: the Blackout is an anti-spin with an ultra-soft absorption sponge: the opponent’s ball “dies” and comes back heavy, low and slow (why). Shot by shot, it shines when blocking a strong topspin and when receiving heavily spun serves, and it struggles against passive, backspin or high balls. The strengths are the block, the control and what it does to the opponent’s head; the weaknesses, attacking and pushing dead balls. It works well for players with a good pivot or who want to defend close to the table; it is not at its best for those who rely on attacking with the anti side. And be careful when removing it: the sponge is very fragile.

What is an anti with an absorption sponge

An anti-spin is a smooth rubber (pips in, like a regular offensive inverted rubber) with a topsheet that has very little friction. Instead of creating spin, it sends back a good part of the spin it receives: the opponent’s topspin comes back as a no-spin ball or with heavy backspin, depending on how you play the shot.

The Blackout adds an absorption sponge to that: extremely soft, made to “swallow” the ball’s speed instead of returning it. Sauer & Tröger describes an ultra-soft, linearly damping sponge and a topsheet with about 85% less grip than a regular rubber. The result, at the table, is a ball that reaches the other side slow, low and with reversed spin. That combination is what confuses the opponent.

And here is the rule for every absorption sponge: the thicker, the slower. It is the opposite of an offensive sandwich rubber (topsheet + sponge), where more sponge means more speed.

The Blackout from the side: the topsheet with its pips showing, the absorption sponge and the DHS 08X blade. You can see that the pips are wide and tall and that the sponge is very airy. Photo: 360TT

Why the ball dies and drops

We say a moving ball has two speeds. Horizontal speed is how fast it travels forward, toward the other side of the table and back: it is what we call a fast or slow ball. Vertical speed is how fast it goes up or down. At the highest point of any arc, vertical speed is zero: the ball has stopped rising and has not started to fall yet. The horizontal speed carries on.

Timing points, the way we organize the moment of hitting the ball, only count after the bounce on your side of the table, because that is when you are allowed to touch it (there is no volley in table tennis): point 1 is on the rise, before the top of the arc; point 2 is the highest point; point 3 comes after it, on the way down.

The absorption sponge mostly steals horizontal speed. The ball leaves the Blackout moving slowly forward, while gravity keeps pulling it down as hard as ever. Even clearing the net by a hair, it travels less forward in the time it takes to fall: it lands short, and the bounce comes out low and does not travel far. The opponent’s point 2 is low and close to the net. To attack, they have to go and get the ball and put all the horizontal speed back on it by themselves.

The drawing below shows this when blocking a strong topspin: a regular rubber sends the ball back fast and with topspin; the Blackout sends it back slow and with backspin.

Blocking a strong topspin: with less horizontal speed, the Blackout ball lands short and bounces low. To-scale drawing with illustrative speeds. Illustration: 360TT

Specifications

I didn’t measure much, I admit: the plan was just to test it, not to write a review. But I did weigh the rubber: my 1.5 mm Blackout, cut for the 08X (a large blade), weighed 31 g, without glue. It is light, and the sponge is, in my words, “ridiculously slow”.

31 g on the scale: the 1.5 mm Blackout cut for the DHS 08X, without glue. Photo: 360TT

What the manufacturer says (official Blackout page):

Item	Blackout
Type	anti-spin with sponge
Thicknesses	1.5 mm and 2.0 mm
Sponge	ultra-soft, linearly damping
Topsheet	about 85% less grip
Colors	red, black and blue
Speed / control / disruption	33 / 98 / 99 (S&T scale)
Recommended style	defensive, close to the table

I used the 1.5 mm, the thinnest (and therefore the faster of the two), in blue (the sponge is blue too).

The three Blackout colors: red, black and blue. Photos: Sauer & Tröger

Front and back of the packaging. Photos: Sauer & Tröger

How the test went

About 45 days of use, only in training and some doubles, always on the backhand, with the setup I described at the start. I didn’t take the Blackout to a tournament, partly because I stopped competing in 1995 and never went back, nor do I plan to. The opponents were first- and second-division players from Minas Gerais, people who attack well and know how to read spin.

The test racket, with the Blackout on the backhand of the DHS 08X. Photo: 360TT

I expected a less slow rubber than it is. Its ability to absorb speed surprised me. The topsheet is very smooth, but not as smooth as the Dr. Neubauer A‑B‑S 3 Pro (another anti with an absorption sponge), and that little bit of friction helps with some pushes.

It took me about two weeks to get used to it. Having used the Monkey long pips in 0.6 mm before helped a lot; it is also from Sauer & Tröger and also uses an absorption sponge, like the Blackout. Anyone coming straight from an offensive rubber will probably need more time.

Shot by shot

Blocking a strong topspin

This is where the Blackout shines. Against a strong topspin, the ball dies on the racket and comes back really heavy, low and slow. The opponent who went all out gets a ball with no pace at all and has to generate the power again, from scratch.

Receiving serves

It depends on the serve. Against serves with lots of spin, it works very well: the rubber ignores much of the spin and the ball comes back under control. A slow, no-spin serve, on the other hand, is chaos: there is no speed or spin for the rubber to use, and the ball tends to pop up far too easily.

Against backspin balls and pushes

This is the weak spot. Against backspin, the Blackout is too slow, and pushing is not very effective. What worked well was a firmer chop, even close to the table. Players used to pushing with OX long pips will need to adapt.

Slow balls and the short game

Against passive balls, it doesn’t work well. Without the energy of the opponent’s ball, the rubber has nothing to send back, and the push lacks weight, forcing you to hit harder and take more risk.

Attacking

Very hard and not very effective. You can push backspin balls, but not as well as with long pips, and hitting firmly is really difficult.

Serving

Very limited. Serving with the Blackout side gives an average player an easy ball to attack.

Away from the table

Only chopping, and quite hard, or the ball won’t even reach the other side. And it always comes back slow, with little spin. A more offensive blade might help, but I didn’t test that.

What about twiddling?

I don’t twiddle the racket during the point: I never learned to think of it in time. Whenever I use pips or an anti on the backhand, I lose the touch of an inverted backhand; I would need a lot of training to turn it into a skill. For those who twiddle, the Blackout helps: you can choose between the anti and the inverted rubber on every ball, and also create chances to attack.

On the other side of the table

The Blackout ball drops before it gets there, it is so slow, and that makes it hard for the opponent to attack: they have to go and get the ball and generate all the power on their own. And yes, it often messes with the head of whoever is on the other side. That psychological effect helps a lot: if the Blackout ball is followed by an attack right after, the opponent is under even more pressure.

But one kind of opponent put me at a disadvantage: the one who understands spin and, instead of going all or nothing, builds the point with more passive, well-placed balls, especially to the backhand, waiting for the right ball to finish. Against that player, I had to get out of the passive backhand and attack with the forehand, that is, pivot, or risk attacking with the Blackout, which doesn’t work well.

The players who attacked more were the best ones for me. That is where the Blackout shines: on defense.

Why I stopped using it

I have a total hip replacement, as I mentioned in the post Your heart lost the point. Because of it, my movement is limited, and attacking almost everything with the forehand is not a real option for me. I also had no plans to keep using it: the idea was just to test it, and it was a lot of fun and quite a challenge.

The Blackout made my backhand purely passive. Without the pivot to compensate, it limited my game too much. That is not a flaw in the rubber: it is its profile. Players who are quick enough to attack with the forehand, or skilled enough to twiddle, live a different reality with it.

Compared with other rubbers

Super Stop (Sauer & Tröger): another anti from the same brand. The main difference is the absorption sponge, which the Super Stop doesn’t have. The Super Stop makes attacking much easier, but it doesn’t absorb as much speed and spin as the Blackout. Want more attack from your anti? Super Stop. Want to kill the ball? Blackout.

Dr. Neubauer A‑B‑S 3 Pro: its main direct competitor, also with an absorption sponge, and it costs quite a bit more: a quick search showed me the Blackout’s average price is about 40% lower (prices checked in October 2026).

Blade: on a slow blade, the Blackout is almost unworkable. The blade needs medium or even high speed to make up for the slowness of the sponge. Very soft, flexible blades are not the best options either. On a 7-ply like the DHS PG7, it works really well.

Gluing, cleaning and durability

Gluing is easy, like any rubber (if you’re not sure which glue to use, see Which 360TT glue to use?). Removing it is the big problem: the sponge is extremely fragile. Gluing it with a double-sided adhesive sheet, instead of glue, can be a good idea here.

Careful when removing it

The Blackout’s sponge tears easily. Peel it off slowly, without rushing and without bending the rubber. We recommend using a plastic spatula to help. If you change equipment often, count on this risk.

Cleaning: we recommend the regular SpinUp. It doesn’t need a protective film, and you should never put an adhesive protective film on its topsheet, or on any anti-spin’s.

Durability: here it is the opposite of other rubbers. When it wears out, the Blackout starts to grab spin, that is, it gradually loses exactly what makes it an anti. I used it for a short time, so I can’t say how long it lasts; from what I saw, it lasts a long time. Mine looked like new.

Strengths

Blocking heavy topspin: the ball dies on the racket and comes back heavy, low and slow.
Receiving heavily spun serves: the rubber ignores much of the spin, and the ball comes back under control and dropping.
Control: it absorbs speed and spin very well, even against strong attacks.
It gets into the opponent’s head: the slow ball with reversed spin breaks the attacker’s rhythm, and the pressure grows if you attack right after.
Light and durable: 31 g cut for a large blade, and mine looked like new after the test.
Price: its main direct competitor costs quite a bit more.

Weaknesses

Passive, dead or high balls: attacking and pushing these balls is chaos. Against backspin it still works, but not as well as with pips.
Attacking: very hard and not very effective.
Serving: easy for the opponent to attack.
Removing it: the sponge is fragile, be careful.
The slowness: you can hardly call it a weakness, since it is made to be this way, but it is, in my words, irritatingly slow. That is the price of absorbing so much.

Who it may suit

Where it works well:

with players who have a good pivot and want to use the backhand to create chances after the opponent’s attack;
with players who want to play mainly defending close to the table;
with players who twiddle during the point, breaking the rhythm;
with veterans: the Blackout fits well in the game of those who already read spin and prefer blocking to attacking.

Where it doesn’t shine (nothing stops anyone from adapting and using it, but it is not its strength):

for players who rely on pushing or attacking with the anti or pips side;
for players who chop away from the table: you can adapt, but it is not where it shines;
for beginners: without reading spin and without the pivot, they struggle more.

The bottom line

Irritatingly slow, and that is exactly why it works.

The Blackout does very well what it promises: it kills the opponent’s speed and sends back a low, slow ball with reversed spin. In return, it charges a high price from anyone who needs to attack with it. If your game has the pivot to take advantage of what it creates, it is worth a try.

Now I want to hear from you: have you used the Blackout or played against it? Do my impressions match yours? And which DHS, Sauer & Tröger and 360TT products would you like to see in the next review? Tell me in the comments.

Blackout – Sauer & TrögerAnti-spin with an ultra-soft absorption sponge: it kills the speed of the topspin and sends back a low, slow ball with reversed spin. Visit the store →

So, which rubber should you use? The null hypothesis method

Sun, 18 Oct 2026 23:05:00 -0300

I wrote the first version of this article a few years ago. I sent it to a few WhatsApp groups, told anyone who wanted to share it to go ahead, and it traveled all over Brazil. One day I was asked to publish it on an official Brazilian table tennis website, as long as I first made an infographic summarizing everything, because “it’s too long, nobody will read it”. I didn’t make the infographic. If nobody was going to read it, there was no point in publishing it.

Since then, something I argued for in 2022, when almost nobody was talking about it — that tacky and hybrid rubbers would change the game — has become what you see on any broadcast from the world circuit. That was the push I needed to rewrite the text, now with numbers and with a real case of a hypothesis tested on a worldwide scale. It’s still long. But it’s the first post on this new blog, and I think it’s fair to start with the subject that causes the most confusion, wasted money and regret in table tennis: so, which rubber should you use?

The short answer: probably not the one you’re thinking of buying. The long one is coming.

TL;DR: “tried it and liked it” is a clinical trial without a control: the novelty effect fools you, and the right starting point is the null hypothesis — the new rubber is not better than yours until proven otherwise. In Butterfly’s own catalog, spin and arc follow sponge hardness in an almost straight line (correlations of 0.97 and 0.98). So choose by method: throw angle, hardness, thickness, cost per month of use and your current technical level. Tacky and hybrid rubbers are the real case of a hypothesis tested by the whole world. And, once you’ve chosen your rubber, stop switching: it takes 60 to 90 days of training for it to pay off.

Note

I don’t mean to judge anyone who likes testing equipment. Back when I played, I made my rubbers last until they were worn out, and then used them a few more days. Today, now that I can afford it, I also buy things just because I like them or out of curiosity. But the scope here is different: what does or doesn’t help you win more points and more matches. And that doesn’t depend on our curiosity.

For years I’ve followed opinions and recommendations about equipment with a certain unease. Many come from smart, honest people, some of whom I know well. What bothers me isn’t the opinion itself: it’s how easily rationality collapses in the face of a shallow argument, with no technical or logical basis, bordering on mysticism. Without a minimum of method, we become hostages to “tried it and liked it”, to fashion, to the recommendation of the influencer of the moment or to the rubber that so-and-so from the national team uses.

The clinical trial of your racket

Start with a hypothesis: “rubber X, regardless of brand, price, weight or hardness, is the best for athlete Y to win more matches”. Note: it’s not about landing more drives in training. It’s about winning more matches.

That hypothesis is born with a very low probability of being right. The obvious combinations, like “famous rubber used by a famous player”, were picked long ago: they’re the low-hanging fruit. What’s left is high up in the tree, more expensive and more laborious to reach.

And the tree is huge. In October 2019, the ITTF celebrated a record: more than 1,600 rubbers on the list of authorized racket coverings (LARC). On September 21, 2026, I checked the official list: there are 1,716 approved rubbers from 150 brands. In the meantime, many dropped off (approvals expire, manufacturers discontinue models), but even more came in. The funnel keeps growing.

On top of that, each rubber behaves differently on each blade. Simplifying a lot, with just three blades from the same brand (defensive, allround and offensive), you already have 5,148 combinations: a 0.02% chance of getting it right at random. And that math is generous, because it assumes a single rubber per racket, when the forehand and backhand usually carry different rubbers.

Keep that number in mind, 0.02%. It will show up again somewhere very different.

🔎 The cover challenge

In fact, it has already shown up once: this post’s cover image has 5,148 rackets, one for each combination, and only one is orange. Missed it? Scroll back up and take a good look. Found it? That’s your chance of getting it right by luck.

I went digging in a field that isn’t mine, to draw a parallel. Before a drug reaches the pharmacy, it goes through a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Patients are randomly split into two groups: one gets the drug, the other gets a pill with no active ingredient at all (the placebo). “Double-blind” means that neither the patient nor the doctor doing the assessment knows who is in which group until the end of the study.

All that care exists because of a real, well-documented phenomenon: the placebo effect. A significant share of the people who take the sugar pill, thinking it’s medicine, report improvement, out of expectation, extra attention, the ritual of “being treated”. It’s an effect strong enough to contaminate any assessment done without a control.

That’s why the starting hypothesis of every clinical trial, the null hypothesis, isn’t “the drug works”. It’s the opposite: “this treatment is no better than the placebo”. You run the study, compare the groups and ask: if the drug did nothing, what would be the chance of seeing a difference this size or larger just by chance? If that chance falls below 5% — the famous “p < 0.05” that shows up in any serious study — the null hypothesis is rejected. And even then, regulatory agencies usually require more than one study before approving anything.

The funnel is relentless. The most quoted estimate in the pharmaceutical industry is 1 drug approved for every 5,000 to 10,000 compounds examined in the discovery phase. In the best case, 1 in 5,000: 0.02%. And of those that make it to human trials, fewer than 1 in 10 is approved (7.9%, according to the most recent survey by BIO, the US biotechnology industry association, covering 2011 to 2020).

Did you notice? 0.02% is practically the same as the chance of picking the right rubber-and-blade combination at random. A numerical coincidence, of course. But the logic is the same: when the search space is huge, a guess almost always misses.

Now, your reality. You buy a new rubber, train two or three sessions, like it and conclude: “this is the one”. Statistically, you’ve just run a clinical trial with a single patient, no control group, no blinding and an enormous expectation bias. You knew it was new, you paid more attention to your fundamentals, you trained with more motivation, you’d already paid a lot for it (and nobody likes admitting they wasted their money), and you were still riding the manufacturer’s marketing or the social media hype. It’s the placebo effect, applied to the racket.

And there’s one more ingredient, maybe the most treacherous: almost nobody switches rubbers during a good spell. We switch after a bad run, and bad runs pass on their own, with or without a new rubber. In statistics, that’s called regression to the mean. At the table, it becomes “the new rubber fixed it”.

“Tried it and liked it” is not evidence that the rubber is better. It’s exactly what a clinical trial exists to filter out.

That’s why the right stance is to keep the null hypothesis by default: the new rubber is not better than yours until proven otherwise, with enough time to separate the real effect from the novelty effect. In practice, that time is around 60 to 90 days of training. Not out of pessimism. Out of method.

One detail makes all the difference: in statistics, the null hypothesis is never “proven”. At most, a study fails to reject it. Nobody proves that “rubber X doesn’t work”; what exists is an absence of evidence that it works, which is quite different. That’s why the burden of proof always lies with whoever claims it works, never the other way around.

Now you start to understand why there are so many rubber models and so much marketing around them. And why it’s so tempting to use your favorite player’s rubber.

The next Waldner and the silent graveyard

Your 10-year-old cousin plays far above his training partners and is always praised by the coach. Could he be the next Waldner? He could. Is it likely? No: there are thousands of kids like him around the world, and most will never turn pro. When one of them finally reaches the top 20, the coach says he “always knew”. That’s hindsight bias: once the result shows up, memory rewrites the past and everything seems to have been predictable, while hundreds of other coaches thought the same about their own pupils. For a neutral observer, back at the start, the logical thing was the null hypothesis: that boy will probably become a driver, a lawyer, a dentist, and most promising talents stay just that, promising. Whoever sells or manufactures something shouldn’t fall in love with their own creation, which is exactly what a mother does when she swears her son is the next Waldner.

The same happens with the champion’s rubber: you only see the ones who made it. In the business world they say the graveyard is silent: companies that went bust don’t give keynote talks. Nassim Taleb calls this silent evidence. There’s no list of the thousands who used the same rubber and got nowhere, and nobody sees the years of training that made that rubber work in the champion’s hand.

And there’s the opposite path. Everyone knows the athlete who, when he loses, finds the culprit: the equipment, the lighting, the ball, the floor, the air conditioning. The philosopher Karl Popper had a name for this: ad hoc hypothesis, an explanation invented after the fact, just to save a belief that reality was knocking down. With rubbers, it sounds like this: “the rubber is great, I just wasn’t having a good day”, “it only works when boosted”, “it didn’t match my blade”. Each of those sentences protects a belief instead of testing it.

The antidote has existed since the Scientific Revolution and the Enlightenment, which pulled us out of magical explanations and the authority of tradition. Your smartphone exists because of chemistry, not alchemy: nobody got to the lithium battery by mixing substances at random and making up excuses for every mix that went wrong. But when it comes to equipment, we’re still very medieval. The method is clear: assume it doesn’t work, leave the burden of proof with whoever claims it does, and don’t make up excuses when the null hypothesis wins.

The Enlightenment gathered in one salon: in this 1812 painting, Anicet-Charles-Gabriel Lemonnier imagined the leading names of the era in Paris, in 1755, listening to a reading of a play by Voltaire (the bust in the background). Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

What the catalog itself reveals

Among rubbers in the same hardness range, most of the differences that marketing advertises are just sales pitch. Unfortunately. Or fortunately! And the proof comes from the most unlikely place: the manufacturer’s own numbers.

Before going on, a clarification: what follows is not a criticism of Butterfly. Quite the opposite: they’re incredible products, and I always say the Dignics 09C is the best Butterfly rubber of all time. I use their numbers precisely because the catalog gives indexes for an entire line, all measured the same way, and that makes the math possible.

And a technical caveat. Butterfly doesn’t publish “control” as a metric. It publishes Speed, Spin and Arc, all relative indexes, measured in its own tests (the numbers here are from the 2026 catalog). Arc, by Butterfly’s own definition, measures how easily the rubber produces a high trajectory on the topspin. In other words, it mixes the ball’s throw angle with the effect of spin on the curve. I’ll say more about that later; here, I keep the name from the table.

Source: Butterfly 2026 catalog. Analysis: 360TT.

I cross-referenced the three indexes of 16 rubbers from Butterfly’s High Tension generation: Tenergy, Dignics, Zyre, Glayzer and Rozena. I left out the ones that predate that technology (Sriver, Sriver EL, Flextra and Tackiness Chop), the Roundell, well below the Tenergy line in performance and in use, and the Tenergy 25 family, which barely circulates in Brazil.

The result: spin and arc follow sponge hardness with correlations of 0.97 and 0.98, respectively. Almost a straight line. Speed, on the other hand, tracks nothing: it sits between 75 and 90 for all of them.

And the catalog throws in a lab test for free. The Tenergy 05 Hard is, by Butterfly’s own text, the Tenergy 05 with a harder sponge (from 36° to 43°). Spin goes up 26%, arc goes up 16%, and speed doesn’t budge (83 and 82). Only the hardness changed, and performance jumped the way that, in theory, it should only jump with a whole new line. The Tenergy 05 Hard ties on spin with the Dignics 09C, which costs a third more, and even comes close to the Zyre 03, the most expensive of all, launched years later. The name changes, the price changes, the sponge gets harder, and the result follows the hardness, not the name of the technology.

How much of the “generational leap” is repackaged hardness?

There’s one exception that confirms the rule instead of breaking it: the two slowest rubbers in the group aren’t the softest. They’re the only hybrids in the catalog, Glayzer 09C (speed 75) and Dignics 09C (79), both with a tacky topsheet. And the catalog gives you a second test that looks free but has a catch: the Dignics 09C and the Zyre 03 use the same sponge, the 44° Spring Sponge X. The tacky one comes out at speed 79; the non-tacky one, at 88. But the topsheet isn’t the only difference: the Zyre 03 has a thinner topsheet and, to make up for it, a thicker sponge (2.5 or 2.7 mm, versus 1.9 or 2.1 mm on the Dignics 09C). Part of that speed is less tackiness; part is more sponge. There, hardness doesn’t act alone: the tackiness holds the ball longer on contact, steals speed and gives back trajectory. It’s no coincidence that the two hybrids are among the highest-arc rubbers in the group (95 and 96). Butterfly doesn’t say how it measures speed, but the number is what you’d expect from a low-energy test, in which the hard sponge doesn’t even get activated. It’s the same “slowness” many people feel when they try a Chinese or a hybrid rubber, and that disappears when technique puts real energy into the stroke.

And here comes a variable almost no manufacturer explains: sponge thickness. When the catalog says rubber X has speed Y, it doesn’t say which thickness it measured, and most likely it’s the thickest in the line. With regular sponges, the rule is simple: the thicker, the faster. The Zyre 03 illustrates this: it isn’t faster than the Dignics because its sponge uses a different technology, but because it has more of the same sponge. The relationship only flips with absorbing sponges, made to deaden the ball, like those of the Sauer & Tröger Blackout and the Dr. Neubauer A-B-S 3 Pro anti-spin rubbers: with them, the thicker the sponge, the more it absorbs, and the slower the rubber.

And with hybrids, the story gets more interesting than a catalog number: the throw angle changes with the stroke. Contact dominated by the topsheet (more tack, more dwell time on the rubber) produces a high throw angle. Contact dominated by the sponge (a drier touch, with less tack coming into play) produces a much flatter trajectory. It’s the same rubber with two behaviors, depending on execution: the “2 in 1” I talk about further on, now applied to the trajectory.

Sponge hardness, by the way, is the most glaring example of how each manufacturer creates its own ruler. Rubber hardness is measured with a durometer, on the Shore scales: within the same scale, the higher the number, the harder. But there are different Shore scales, with no simple conversion between them, and many manufacturers don’t really use a standardized scale at all. The “degrees” on the package are usually the brand’s internal ruler. A “40° DHS” and a “40° ESN” don’t necessarily represent the same physical hardness. The chart above only works because it compares rubbers from a single brand, on the same ruler.

Another subject that has become a fad is the so-called arc of the ball, poorly understood and “sold” in a strange way. The arc is the curve the ball draws in the air, and what draws that curve is physics: the angle and speed at which the ball leaves the racket, gravity pulling down, and spin. On a topspin, the Magnus effect pushes the ball down and closes the curve. The rubber plays a part in two ways: in the throw angle (which depends on sponge hardness, topsheet grip and pimple design) and in how much spin it lets you generate. But what generates the spin is your technique. Without enough spin, the ball comes out high, makes a long, open parabola and goes past the table. Throw Angle is not arc: it’s just its starting point.

About control, which I consider subjective: if rubber speed were always linear, control would just be a function of speed. It isn’t. Soft rubbers react more with little energy applied and give the false sensation of being fast. Hard rubbers (like Chinese ones or the Tenergy 05 Hard itself) are more direct, and if you can’t apply enough energy to activate the sponge, you’ll get the false sensation that they’re slower than soft ones. Tacky-topsheet rubbers with a hard sponge, by the way, give a much greater sense of control on passive balls (serve, receive, push, block) and are very fast on high-power attacks, when your technique activates the sponge. Keep that in mind for a little later.

Some conclusions:

Choosing by catalog speed is almost useless: the manufacturer doesn’t say which thickness it measured, and the difference between models is small and doesn’t even track hardness. What would help is an index per thickness, something like 1.7 mm: speed 7; 1.9 mm: 8.5; 2.1 mm: 10 (numbers just for illustration). Then it would make sense.
So is choosing by catalog spin: it practically repeats the sponge hardness. Look at the hardness and you already know almost everything that number tells you.
Choosing by the stated control is useless: control isn’t just a function of speed, and it’s subjective.
The catalog “arc” says little about your game: it depends on your ability to generate spin, and even the blade contributes. What’s worth looking at is the throw angle; I’ll get there.
Choosing the famous player’s rubber is completely useless: what he does with it is the fruit of a technique you probably haven’t developed yet, built over years of training with that equipment. It’s correlation mistaken for causation.
Choosing because a friend “tried it and liked it” is just as useless. Most people test by hitting drives in a controlled setting, when they should test in real matches, and only after adjusting their muscle memory to the rubber. Then the opinion would have some method behind it.

How to choose by method

With the null hypothesis as a premise, how do you choose a rubber?

Method 1 — Middle Ages precepts: catalog arc, spin, speed and control, marketing descriptions, fashion, “tried it and liked it”, “my favorite player uses…”.

Method 2 — Enlightenment precepts: throw angle, sponge hardness, overall perceived hardness, sponge thickness, cost per month of use and, above all, your current technical level.

A good drug doesn’t come from testing a thousand substances at random hoping one will reveal itself. It comes from criteria for choosing the compound and fine-tuning the dose. With rubber it’s the same: choose by Method 2 and, once you’ve chosen, adjust your technique to it.

Throw angle: rubbers that lift the ball a lot on topspin push low and, if the sponge is soft, tend to be more sensitive to the opponent’s spin (they “eat” more spin): it gets harder to receive a heavy backspin serve, but easier to open up against backspin. Examples: Butterfly Tenergy 05 and Donic Bluefire, M line. Rubbers that lift the ball less push higher, are less sensitive to the opponent’s spin, and their topspins arrive faster and deeper, making the counterattack harder. Examples: Butterfly Tenergy 64, Donic Acuda Blue, P line, and hard Chinese rubbers like the DHS Hurricane 3 National Blue Sponge (the line Ma Long uses on his forehand).

Wang Chuqin in the semifinal of the 2025 World Championships in Doha (May 24, 2025), a tournament he won: on the left, backspin; on the right, topspin. Photos: WTT/Eng Chin An

Sponge hardness: there’s no reliable general table; each manufacturer uses its own ruler, as we saw. If you don’t have refined technique or an athlete’s fitness, and don’t train every day, avoid very hard rubbers, like Butterfly’s 44° ones, those at 52.5° or more on the ESN scale or a DHS Hurricane 3 above 39°. You’ll probably find these “cannons” heavy and slow.

This also explains a phenomenon that confuses a lot of people: a rubber considered “medium hardness” two decades ago may feel soft today, without the sponge having changed one millimeter. The ball has become bigger and more demanding. In 2000, it went from 38 mm and 2.5 g to 40 mm and 2.7 g. In 2014, it switched from celluloid to plastic (the 40+ ball), which is stiffer; and, from 2017 on, came the ABS generations that dominate today (I tell that story here). A bigger, heavier, harder ball engages the sponge more and demands more from it to return the same response. Add to that the end of speed glue, in 2008 (the full story is here), and the market pushed the ruler upward: so-called “dynamic” sponges appeared, firmer and more reactive. The middle of the scale shifted. What used to be “medium”, compared with today’s catalog, falls into the range we call soft. It’s not that the rubber got weaker; it’s that the ruler moved.

A good starting point is an intermediate hardness: 45° to 47.5° on the ESN scale, 37° to 38° on DHS (except Gold Arc 5 and 8) and 36° to 38° on Butterfly.

Overall perceived hardness: what you feel in your hand is the combination of sponge and topsheet, and it can be quite different from the sponge’s nominal hardness, besides being tremendously influenced by the blade. Donic’s Bluestorm line has a good example: the Z1 and the Z2 have the same 47.5° sponge, but the Z1 feels harder because of the topsheet. The DHS Gold Arc, even with a sponge considered medium (42.5° or 47.5°), is reported by many players as “harder than it looks on paper”, an effect of its firm, non-tacky topsheet.

Sponge thickness: when you buy, the manufacturer usually offers three choices: color (one side black and the other colored, as the rules require), hardness (not every brand offers more than one) and thickness. That last one matters a lot, and hardly anyone thinks about it. The physics is simple: the sponge works like a spring. The thicker it is, the more room the ball has to sink in and the more energy it gives back, so the rubber gets faster. The thinner it is, the sooner the ball reaches the wood: the feel gets firmer and more direct, speed drops, but spin doesn’t drop with it. Relative to speed, you get even more spin, and the ball dips more onto the table. The thick one only wins on a very hard stroke, where the thin sponge bottoms out. In Brazil, it became the rule to always buy the thickest, as if thickness meant quality. It doesn’t. When I trained seriously, I used Max on the forehand and 2.0 mm on the backhand. And thick sponges are nothing new: in the ’90s I played with Yasaka Mark V 2.5 mm and speed glue, which swelled the sponge even more; it was surely already at the Zyre 03’s 2.7 mm. This habit costs everyone: since the Brazilian market rejects thin sponges, importers avoid bringing them in, and the players who need them are left without options.

Cost per month of use: the most expensive rubber on the market won’t make you win more matches, believe me! (Yes, I’m a terrible salesman…) As we saw in the numbers, the price follows the name of the technology, not the result. And there’s a calculation almost nobody does: durability. Traditional Chinese rubbers, like the DHS Hurricane 3 National Blue Sponge, are among the most durable on the market: a dense sponge and a tough topsheet lose tack and response much more slowly than most of the latest-generation European and Japanese rubbers. A cheaper rubber that also lasts more months of hard training comes out much cheaper per month of use than an expensive “technology” rubber with a short lifespan. Before comparing list prices, ask: how many months of training does each option really deliver?

Current technical level: perhaps the most applicable suggestion of all. I don’t like the idea that an athlete’s performance is something fixed: saying “so-and-so is better than such-and-such” ignores that both are constantly evolving. At 360TT we use a dynamic assessment report, filled in by the athlete and the coach, that compares how each of them sees the athlete’s current technical level. And that reference changes as the athlete evolves: a topspin rated 8 against state-level players may be worth a 3 at a Pro Tour, because the reference changed. It’s the same logic as the hardness ruler that moved. In general, with more technique and better fitness, harder rubbers start being put to better use.

The world changed its mind about tacky rubbers

I’ve been championing Chinese and hybrid rubbers for years, because of the huge advantage they give. They’re practically two rubbers in one: power from the hard sponge, a sense of control on passive balls from the tacky topsheet, and more spin generation. China has always used hard, tacky rubber on the forehand, and later on the backhand too (why the Chinese elite carries the Hurricane 8 on the backhand). When hybrids started to appear, it was clear that Western manufacturers were trying to combine the power of European and Japanese rubbers with the advantage of the Chinese tacky topsheet.

I even posted about it on 360TT’s Instagram, in January 2022, when we were still reselling other brands, before becoming the official DHS distributor. The 5 reasons I pointed out still hold, now with an extra layer of evidence, mass adoption by professionals:

a hybrid makes it easier to keep the ball short (the topsheet’s grip “holds” the ball);
it gives more spin on the serve, without the ball shooting off, making the opponent’s receive harder;
it gives a greater sense of control on passive balls (push, block, serve receive), making it easier to put the ball where you want;
it allows attacks with more spin, making up for the loss of spin with plastic balls without losing speed, thanks to dynamic sponges;
it helps refine technique: with a greater sense of control, you hit relaxed, not tense, and still gain speed.

360TT's Instagram post from January 21, 2022 (in Portuguese: \"The 5 reasons to use a hybrid rubber\").

Back then, though, hybrids still fell well short of pure Chinese rubbers, like the Hurricane 3 National Blue Sponge itself. And the market, at first, didn’t really understand how they worked: it labeled hybrids as “slow”, the same way it had always labeled traditional Chinese rubbers. In reality, they were less slow than pure Chinese rubbers, but they felt slow for the reason I explained above: the false sensation of slowness for those who can’t apply enough energy to a hard sponge and overcome the tack of the topsheet.

Want to check it? Put a rubber protector film on your “slow” Chinese rubber (it isolates the tack) and bounce the ball. Then tell me whether it died (as it does without the protector) or bounced high.

With players’ gradual adaptation and the evolution of tacky topsheets, driven mainly by the German company ESN, which manufactures for practically everyone (Donic, Tibhar, Stiga, Andro, Joola, Gewo, Xiom, among others, including DHS’s Gold Arc 5 and 8 line), the advantage that was almost exclusive to the Chinese started to shrink. Never have so many Chinese and hybrid rubbers been used around the world as today.

A good “home-grown” example for us Brazilians is Hugo Calderano. He had already switched to hybrid rubbers some time before: I noticed it in his game before the market talked about it, I even brought it up in the WhatsApp groups I’m part of, and Xiom itself confirmed it the same week I mentioned it. The trajectory of passive balls on a tacky rubber is very distinctive, and his passive game improved a lot: serve, receive and so on. The power of his counterattack also increased. 2025 brought the biggest results of his career. On April 20, he won the World Cup in Macao, beating Tomokazu Harimoto in the quarterfinals, Wang Chuqin in the semifinal and Lin Shidong in the final, and became the first World Cup champion from outside Asia and Europe. A month later, at the World Championships in Doha, he beat Liang Jingkun in the semifinal and only lost in the final, against the same Wang Chuqin. Far be it from me to reduce any player to the equipment he uses (I know very well how much training it takes to get the most out of any tool), but the tools are, without a doubt, more capable.

Calderano and Thiago Monteiro, then head coach of Brazil's men's team, seconds after the historic title in Macao (April 20, 2025). Photo: ITTF

China, for its part, is going through a strange moment. In the men’s world ranking at the start of October 2026, number 1 is a 19-year-old Japanese player, Sora Matsushima, and only two Chinese players appear in the top ten: Wang Chuqin, in 4th, and Lin Shidong, in 9th. Days later, at China Smash, in Beijing, the men’s final was between Matsushima and Lin Yun-ju, from Chinese Taipei, without a single player from the Chinese national team. On the women’s side, the dominance continues: six Chinese players in the top 10, and the title at that same China Smash went to Wang Manyu. The signs had been there for a while. Three days after Calderano’s title, on April 23, 2025, Liu Guoliang stepped down as president of the Chinese Table Tennis Association, which he had led since 2018 (officially, to ease the transition to Los Angeles 2028). Months earlier, Fan Zhendong, Chen Meng and Ma Long had dropped out of the world ranking, at odds with the WTT rule that fines players who skip mandatory tournaments. And at the 2026 World Team Championships in London, the men’s team lost twice in the group stage, to South Korea and to Sweden. It still recovered and won the title (I told the story of that turnaround here), but with a struggle that didn’t exist before. None of this is explained by a single factor. My hypothesis, and it is a hypothesis, subject to the same method as this article, is that the worldwide adoption of tacky and hybrid rubbers narrowed a gap that China enjoyed almost on its own.

Since the world truly adopted Chinese and hybrid rubbers, the balance of forces in table tennis seems to have shifted, including on the women’s side, and we’re all relearning how to play. In the end, it’s a real case, on a worldwide scale, of the mechanism I’ve been defending throughout this article: a hypothesis (“Chinese and hybrid rubbers are slow”) was held for years, until the accumulated evidence knocked it down. And notice the difference: it’s not “the champion uses it, so it works for you”. It’s an entire population of players, of every level, migrating over years. That’s evidence that the equipment works for those who learn to use it, not that it will work on its own in your hand. And, of course, among Chinese and hybrid rubbers there are friendlier, more forgiving ones and hard-to-handle, very hard ones. Choose according to your current technical level.

Transparency: 360TT is the official DHS distributor in Brazil. What I say about it is worth what any seller’s claim is worth, and the burden of proof is mine.

If you want to feel this in your own hand, DHS, a traditional maker of tacky rubbers, today has a lineup too complete to ignore: from the old-school tacky of the DHS Hurricane 3 National Blue Sponge, through the hybrids DHS Hurricane 3-50, DHS Skyline 3-60, DHS PF4-50 and DHS Hurricane 8-80, the latter at a much more demanding level, all the way to the non-tacky, European side, made by ESN itself: the DHS Gold Arc line.

And here’s a personal claim, almost a new hypothesis under test: the DHS PF4-50 would comfortably serve a huge share of Brazilian table tennis players, from beginners up to Brazil’s national “Absolute B” division, maybe even “A”. But look closely: it’s exactly the same kind of claim I made about hybrids back in 2022, still without any statistical proof. Hypothesis launched, not yet refuted. Time (and your own hand) will tell.

DHS PF4-50Hybrid rubber with a tacky topsheet and an elastic, soft #50 sponge: spin on the serve and the drive, with control. Visit the store →

Made your choice? Now stop switching

I usually tell athletes that technique and muscle memory adapt to new equipment in 60 to 90 days of training. It varies a little from player to player, but in general that’s it. If the change in equipment isn’t radical, the adjustment takes much less time, as when you replace 6-month-old rubbers with new ones of the same model. The same goes if you switch your forehand rubber for one with a different throw angle: it may bother you today, but in 60 to 90 days you’ll be adapted, beating the people you used to beat and losing to the people you used to lose to. Once the equipment is chosen by logic, winning matches won’t depend on brand or model. It will depend on you being properly adapted to it.

“Don’t switch” doesn’t mean never switch. Replacing a worn rubber with the same model is maintenance. Moving up to a harder sponge when your technical and physical development starts to call for it (and allow it) is a dose adjustment, made on sound criteria; it’s exactly what “current technical level” is about. What doesn’t make sense is switching because of a new release, a fad or because a friend liked it.

Want to test anyway? Run a single-patient trial

Medicine has a name for this: an “N-of-1” trial, with just one patient, but with a control.

Define beforehand what “better” means: tournament results, ranking points, percentage of receives that land on the table. “The ball felt livelier” doesn’t count.
Write down where you stand today, with your current rubber: it’s your control group.
Change one thing only. New rubber and new blade at the same time = impossible to know what did what.
Give it time: 60 to 90 days of training before judging.
Compare with what you defined in step 1 and, if you can, ask your coach for an assessment before and after.

If the difference doesn’t show up, the null hypothesis won: stick with the one you had and invest the money in training.

Once the compound has been chosen by criteria, and not at random, switching medicine every week isn’t treatment, it’s anxiety.

Adjust the protocol: train, refine your technique and get the most out of the equipment you already have. Happy training, everyone!

Now I want to hear from you: what was the last rubber you switched to, and why? Can you say, with any data, that you won more matches with it? And, if you play with the PF4-50, tell me down below: does my hypothesis pass your test? On the old blog I couldn’t reply to comments; here I can. So feel free to disagree, preferably with evidence. The burden of proof applies to me too.

SpeedUp Pro booster user manual

Thu, 20 Aug 2026 13:36:00 -0300

SpeedUp Pro is here for those who are not satisfied with the standard. If you scanned the QR code on the bottle, welcome to the more elastic side of power. If you got here through the 360TT blog, sit down, because class is in session.

This is not just another generic booster: it is a formulation designed to penetrate deep into the sponge and give back what a lot of rubbers lose over time: dwell time, deep arc and that catapult effect that makes the ball leave the racket “glued” to it until the very last millimeter. But, like any high-performance tool, the Pro demands method. Follow this guide and transform your rubber without losing control along the way.

SpeedUp Pro is the opposite proposal to SpeedUp X: instead of preserving firmness, it softens and “releases” the sponge to generate more spin and more arc on the topspin.

Phase 1: surgical preparation (cleaning)

Before thinking about elasticity, we need cleanliness. The Pro’s oil has to penetrate the sponge, and layers of old glue are barriers that prevent even absorption.

New rubbers: they usually come ready. You can skip to Phase 2.
Used rubbers: you must remove 100% of the old glue from the sponge.

Expert tip

Is the glue hard to remove? You can use a little SpeedUp Pro itself to soften the old layer. Another professional solution is to apply our EasyGlue glue (white version) over the old glue; its formula helps create a single film that makes removal easier without damaging the sponge.

Phase 2: applying it to the sponge

With the sponge clean and free of glue, let’s start the treatment. Thanks to the oil’s low viscosity and to the spray, which spreads the product in an ultra-thin, even film (no thick drops, no waste), the 30ml bottle of SpeedUp Pro goes a long way, even with generous doses.

Step by step

Application:
- On rubbers that are already cut: 12 to 15 sprays.
- On new rubbers, still square (not cut): 15 to 20 sprays, since there is more sponge area to cover.
Massage: cut a small piece of the applicator sponge provided. Spread and rub the product well, pressing on the rubber’s sponge to help absorption. The Pro’s ultra-thin formulation penetrates quickly, so work with light, constant movements.
Working time: let it work for 2h to 4h between coats. Note: the criterion here is different from what you may be used to. The sponge must be dry to the touch, not necessarily dry to the eye. Don’t judge by sight, judge by your finger.

How many coats should you apply? Since it is a very thin oil, with less mass per spray, we recommend 3 coats for the ideal result in elasticity and catapult. Went beyond that, my friend? You have left the tested and approved comfort zone and entered a lawless land, where the only guarantee is your own courage (and the integrity of the ball).

360TT safety alert

The recommended limit is no more than 20 sprays per coat and no more than 5 coats. That said: only a madman, or someone who truly isn’t afraid of waking up with an impossible-to-control catapult racket, would get to 5 coats. Consider yourself warned. 😄

Bubbles and lifting

Each coat makes the sponge stretch more and more. The problem is that the top sheet does not keep up with this growth at the same speed, and this mismatch is what increases the tension on the glue line. As a result, the ever stronger impact of the ball when you hit a drive can favor the appearance of bubbles. That is why you should respect the recommended number of coats: the goal is extra elasticity, not a ruined rubber.

Material sensitivity

Note that rubbers react in different ways:

Sensitive rubbers (tensioned, porous European/Japanese): they already have a more pliable sponge, so the Pro’s effect tends to be faster and more intense. Use it in moderation so you don’t lose control.
Dense rubbers (Chinese/hard sponge): they are the Pro’s ideal target audience, since it penetrates deeply to soften stiffer structures. They may benefit from more coats to reach the ideal elastic effect.

Phase 3: professional assembly

Once the treatment is done, you will notice the rubber has become visibly softer and more pliable to the touch, the sign that the elasticity has been released in the sponge structure.

When the sponge is dry to the touch (remember: to the touch, not to the eye) and shows no traces of oil, it is ready to be glued.

The official recommendation

After releasing so much elasticity in the sponge, the choice of glue is what will define the final character of your setup. We have two recommendations, depending on your style:

EasyGlue Carbon: for those who want to balance the Pro’s extra softness with firmness and precision. The glue creates a more direct connection, holding back a little of the released elasticity and giving back that precise, crisp feel on fast balls.
EasyGlue Green+ (2026 release): for those who want to go the opposite way and extract the absolute maximum catapult effect and dwell time, adding the glue’s elasticity to the elasticity already released by the booster. This is the pair for those who think only about topspin with a deep arc.

If the rubber is very pliable and you have trouble gluing it, contact our team. We are here to help.

Now it’s your turn. Assemble your racket, go to the table and feel the wonderful sound and deep arc on your very first topspin. Enjoy your training!

At 360TT, it’s quality by players, for players.

SpeedUp Pro booster360TT ultra-thin spray booster: maximum elasticity and catapult effect, with a working time of 2h to 4h per coat. 30ml bottle. Buy in the store →

For Sale: Pixie Dust for Equipment Junkies

Sat, 11 Apr 2026 13:07:00 -0300

We see this scene every week at table tennis clubs across Brazil. The player walks into the gym with the trendy racket case. Out of it comes a state-of-the-art carbon blade, worth thousands of reais, assembled with the fastest tensioned rubbers on the market or hefty “Domestic” versions.

During warm-up, it’s a show, or almost. He tries to imitate Ma Long’s torso rotation. He tries Fan Zhendong’s aggressive chiquita. It’s beautiful to watch. But then the tournament starts. And in the first round, he loses to a veteran using a 5-ply all-wood blade, with commercial rubbers from three years ago, or even an old pips rubber. The veteran does nothing incredible. He just blocks, pushes the ball with a consistent shoto, and waits.

The result? The “ace” with the R$ 3,000 racket loses 3 to 0. He sends the ball flying into the wall, dumps it into the net, and leaves the table huffing, glaring at his own racket with a look of disapproval, as if it were to blame.

If you’ve ever been one of these characters, it’s time for a tough talk.

TL;DR: the Equipment Junkie (EJ) believes his idol’s racket brings his idol’s talent along with it, and uses buying as a defense mechanism so he doesn’t have to admit he lacks training. Add the YouTube drive syndrome and it becomes an endless cycle: impossible shot, ball in the net, blame the gear, pricier racket. The way out is to step down a level, put your ego away and go back to the foundation.

The cowardice of the “EJ” (Equipment Junkie)

In table tennis, the addiction to buying new equipment has a world-famous name: Equipment Junkie (EJ). It’s the player who spends far more time online reading about sponge thickness and types of synthetic fiber than training at the club or even just having fun at the table.

The secret dream of every EJ is that, when he buys his idol’s racket, the box will come with a little jar of “pixie dust” (in Brazil, we call it pó de pirlimpimpim, the magic powder from a classic children’s book series). Deep down, he believes that by rubbing this magic dust on the rubber, his body will be taken over by Chinese talent and his drive will come out identical to that of the famous player the blade is named after. But the credit card goes through, the package arrives, and the heavy, slow arm is exactly the same as before.

And I have to be very honest with you: in the overwhelming majority of cases, this frantic hunt for the perfect racket is not a hunt for performance. It’s a defense mechanism. It’s cowardice.

It’s much easier and less painful for your ego to spend R$ 800 on a new rubber than to admit you’re too lazy to “bend your knees” and train. When the ball goes into the net, the expensive racket gives you the perfect excuse: “Damn, I’m still getting used to the catapult on this ZLC carbon”. No. You’re not getting used to anything. You just didn’t reach the ball because your legs are slow and your center of gravity is too high, or your technique is far below what’s needed. The racket became your luxury scapegoat, your conscience bribe.

The YouTube drive syndrome

This equipment problem takes on dramatic proportions when it meets the curse of the digital age. We consume 15-second highlights on Instagram. You watch the top 10 star you admire hit an explosive super drive far from the table, and you want to reproduce it at your club the very next day.

That is the arrogance of skipping the basics. What the YouTube video doesn’t show you are the thousands of hours that athlete spent doing monotonous lateral footwork drills, blocking, backhand/forehand transitions and physical conditioning. Trying to execute a world-class shot without a mastered foundation (technique) is like trying to build the penthouse of a luxury tower on a plot of sand. It will collapse under pressure.

The meat grinder: the cycle of mediocrity

This is where you get stuck and stop improving. The cycle is cruel, and I’ve watched dozens of talented players die in it:

You try the magic YouTube shot.
Since you have neither the technique nor the physical conditioning, you arrive late and send the ball flying.
Your ego won’t let you admit the failure was yours (physical and technical).
You blame the equipment. You think it lacked “catapult” or “bow”.
You buy a faster, harder-to-control (and pricier) racket, thinking it will do the movement for you (the pixie dust illusion).
You try the YouTube shot again, only now the mistake is even more grotesque because the super-fast racket forgives nothing.

You get trapped in an endless cycle where you become the biggest “equipment expert” in the bleachers, but never get past the round of 16 of a regional tournament.

The 360TT verdict: the bitter pill

The table tennis market wants you to buy ever more expensive rackets. But I’m a coach. I want you to win matches and improve. And the cure for this disease requires swallowing your pride.

Step down a level (or two): put your carbon rocket in the drawer. Grab a 5-ply blade, like an OFF- or ALL+, and fit it with controllable commercial rubbers. Feel the ball in your hand again.
Put your ego in your bag: forget the internet-video point. Stop trying to play the prettiest point in the gym and lose the next 5; start playing the safest point.
Go back to the foundation: for the next three months, your focus should be just one thing: training the basics, serve, legs and consistency.

The magic racket doesn’t exist, and it doesn’t come with pixie dust. What exists is sweat, repetition and the humility to understand that, in table tennis, there are no shortcuts.

The table always collects the bill for what you didn’t train.

So, does the shoe fit?

The choice is yours now: keep being the rubber expert in the bleachers or put your ego in your bag and go train. How many “YouTube aces” or EJs do you know at your club? Do you dare to share this post with them?

Now I want to hear from you (if you dare): what’s the most expensive racket or rubber you’ve ever bought thinking it would save your game? Answer honestly in the comments.

The table is waiting for you!

DHS Hurricane 3 NEO: The Guide to the World's Most Famous and Most Used Rubber

Sun, 22 Mar 2026 15:25:00 -0300

Historically, rubbers like the Butterfly Sriver and the Yasaka Mark V dominated the 80s and 90s. In the modern era, the Tenergy 05 carries enormous weight. But when we talk about absolute volume of users (driven by the gigantic base of players in China) and undisputed dominance on the world pro circuit, the DHS Hurricane 3 (and its NEO version) is, without a shadow of a doubt, the most iconic, famous and winning rubber in contemporary table tennis.

With the arrival of the era without speed glue (VOC-free), DHS introduced the NEO version, which comes with a factory semi-activated sponge to make up for the loss of speed, while keeping the famous “tackiness” and the aggressive ball trajectory.

But when a table tennis player decides to buy this rubber, they run into the market’s biggest question: what is the real difference between the DHS versions? Is there a secret ingredient?

TL;DR: the Commercial, Provincial and National versions use the same recipe; what changes is the precision of quality control, and you can tell each one apart by its corner cuts. The tackiness of the more expensive versions is more extreme, which is not an advantage for most players. Choose the hardness for your level (37° to 39° for most), count on booster and buy from someone with a proven source so you don’t fall for a counterfeit.

The big secret: same recipe, different precision

Let’s get straight to the point that surprises people the most: according to DHS’s own technical manuals, the Commercial, Provincial and National versions use exactly the same formula and manufacturing recipe. The real difference is not in the material itself, but in the precision of the technical tolerance (quality control).

The version X-ray and the “corner rule”

To stop counterfeiters from selling commercial rubbers at elite-version prices, DHS established a strict geometric rule. In practice, when you look at the rubber outside the packaging, identifying the cuts visually is very simple (as you can see in the cover image):

Commercial level (4 corners cut): the rubber comes with all four corners of the square cut off. It is the mass-produced version, with a wider tolerance margin at the factory, which makes it much more affordable. It offers excellent value for anyone who wants to step into the world of Chinese rubbers.
Provincial level (2 bottom corners cut): only the two bottom corners are cut. Aimed at professional teams from the Chinese provinces, the quality control is much stricter, ensuring consistent performance from one batch to the next. This is where you start to get frequent access to the famous blue sponge.
National level (no cuts, square): the rubber comes whole, perfectly square and with no cuts. It is DHS’s standard “cream of the crop”. The tolerance is absurdly tight: sponge hardness is accurate to within 0.5 degree and thickness to within 0.05mm. Restricted supply and a very high price.
Player Edition: like the National, it also comes perfectly square and with no cuts. It is a step above the National! These are rubbers made to measure, with the exact specifications required by the elite athlete whose name is on the packaging. For example: Ma Long and Liang Jingkun use 42°, while Wang Chuqin is the best example of an extremely specific setup, demanding exactly 41.5°. On the women’s circuit, where the vast majority use 40°, the star Sun Yingsha stands out using 41°. Your “Player Edition” will come with exactly the personal setup of the athlete you choose.

The truth about the “stickiness” (tackiness)

A common question is whether the more expensive versions “stick” to the ball more.

Thanks to the millimeter-level tolerance, the National version reaches the absolute peak of tackiness on its top layer (topsheet). However, “stickiness” that extreme demands monumental physical effort, flawless technique and perfect footwork to get the ball moving. If you don’t have the explosiveness of an Olympic athlete, the ball will end up in the net.

That is why the Commercial and Provincial versions have a slightly more moderate tackiness. This is not a flaw or a shortcoming, but rather an enormous technical advantage for the general public. They deliver the famous, devastating “Chinese spin”, but with a more friendly response, allowing smoother play without requiring you to be a professional at the table.

Understanding hardness: the Chinese scale vs. the rest of the world

In the DHS universe, sponge hardness changes everything. Since the Chinese scale is different from European (ESN) and Japanese (Butterfly) rubbers, we created this approximate reference table to guide you:

37° (approx. ESN 45~~47° / BTY 35~~36°): the big ace up your sleeve. Extremely efficient for the backhand, but also the ideal starting point for the forehand of beginners and intermediates, since it lets you activate the rubber’s sponge without brute force.
38° and 39° (approx. ESN 48~~50° / BTY 37~~40°): the gold standard for most amateur and advanced competitors on the forehand. Interestingly, professional Chinese players often use up to 38° on their backhand for extra reactivity.
40° (approx. ESN 51~~52° / BTY 41~~42°): high hardness, it requires excellent weight-transfer technique to be used, usually on the forehand.
41° and 42° (approx. ESN 53°+ / BTY 43°+): rubber “bricks”. Reserved for players with massive strength and impeccable technique, usually the Player Edition setups and, in that case, practically exclusive to the forehand.

Blue sponge, orange sponge and the reality of booster

Make no mistake: the Hurricane 3 NEO was made to be used with booster. The reality of high-performance sport is undeniable: virtually 100% of the world-class athletes who use the Hurricane 3 NEO apply booster to activate the sponge’s tension and maximize the catapult effect.

The coveted blue sponge has a structure that makes it absurdly more responsive to booster than the orange sponge. To activate this rubber the right way, a high-tech enhancer such as our SpeedUp boosters is the key to unlocking the Hurricane’s “turbo mode” without damaging the material.

Global dominance: far beyond China

The Hurricane 3 NEO is not exclusively Chinese. The table tennis world has realized that spin (hard Chinese rubbers are bad for smashing) dictates the modern game, and non-Chinese stars from many national teams have built their careers trusting DHS material.

Current players

South Korea women’s team: the absolute domination of DHS. Stars such as Shin Yu-bin, Jeon Ji-hee, Joo Cheonhui and Kim Na-yeong use the tacky rubber to guarantee heavy attacks and set the pace with spin variations.
Hina Hayata (Japan): the current big star and ace of the Japanese team built her top-level game using the Hurricane 3 on the forehand to generate huge arcs and absurd spin.
Jang Woo-jin and An Jae-hyun (South Korea): very strong names on the South Korean men’s side who adopted the Hurricane 3 Blue Sponge on the forehand, dramatically increasing the weight of their first attacking balls.
Nicholas Lum (Australia): a young talent (currently top 34 in the world) who has been shocking the world circuit, recently beating big names such as Darko Jorgic, using the power of the Chinese rubber.
Doo Hoi Kem (Hong Kong): one of the rare athletes in the world elite who used tacky rubber on both sides (forehand and backhand). She recently switched.
Zeng Jian (Singapore): a strong name on the Singapore team who trusts the Hurricane’s precision for her offensive game.
Fu Yu (Portugal): the experienced penholder who represents Portugal shows that the Hurricane 3 is lethal even for an adapted traditional European style.
Andreas Levenko (Austria): an excellent example from the current European circuit who trusts the power and massive spin of the Chinese material.

Retired legends

Kasumi Ishikawa (Japan): one of the most beloved players in the world, Kasumi was one of the main people responsible for popularizing the Hurricane 3 on the forehand outside China. She proved that the classic Japanese speed-based playing style benefited enormously from the arc and the “weight” generated by the Chinese rubber.

Counterfeits and the 360TT verdict

As we saw, the geometric rule (the sponge corners) helps, but the “parallel market” improves its replicas every day, forging holographic seals with a frightening resemblance.

The only way to be sure you are playing with the real material is its source. We at 360TT are official DHS distributors in Brazil. When you buy from us, you can be absolutely certain of getting a 100% original rubber, free from the Russian roulette of counterfeits on the internet.

Which version should you choose?

Beginners and intermediates: start with the Commercial (38° to 39° on the forehand; 37° at most on the backhand).
Advanced players and competitors: go with the Provincial (with sensible use of booster).
Professionals and collectors: National or Player Edition for the peak of precision.

The millimeter precision and technology of the Chinese National Team are at your disposal, but it is your sweat in training that will make the ball land on the other side of the table.

Don’t stop at curiosity! Get your Hurricane 3 NEO with the security of 360TT, glue it onto your blade and test it at your next training session.

DHS Hurricane 3 NEOThe most iconic rubber in table tennis, with a factory semi-activated sponge and DHS's classic tackiness. Commercial version 39°; other versions and hardnesses in the store. Visit the store →

The table is the only place where the truth shows up!

Now I want to hear from you: are you already on Team Hurricane, or do you still play with traditional tensioned rubbers? Tell me in the comments!

Discover the DHS rubbers in the store

SpeedUp X Booster User Manual

Mon, 12 Jan 2026 20:02:00 -0300

SpeedUp X is for players who won’t give up precision, even under pressure. If you scanned the QR code on the bottle, you’ve found the booster that delivers power without losing a firm touch. If you got here through the 360TT blog, get ready to understand the technology behind the brand’s new generation of optimizers.

Unlike traditional treatments, which usually soften the sponge to gain speed, SpeedUp X takes a different path: it works on the structure of the material to generate propulsion without compromising the original firmness (stiffness) of the rubber. The result is a lethal attack with the same direct, solid response you already know, without that feeling of “excessive softness” that gets in the way of control. As a bonus, the formula also improves the glue’s grip on the sponge, helping prevent that annoying lifting at the edges of the rubber.

SpeedUp X is the opposite approach to SpeedUp Pro: while the Pro penetrates deep to make the sponge extremely elastic and pliable, the X preserves the structural firmness for solid, direct strokes. If you are looking for the middle ground between the two approaches, SpeedUp 360 is the in-between choice.

Phase 1: surgical preparation (cleaning)

Before thinking about speed, we need cleanliness. The booster has to penetrate the sponge, and layers of old glue are barriers that prevent even absorption.

New rubbers: they usually come ready. You can skip to Phase 2.
Used rubbers: you must remove 100% of the old glue from the sponge.

Expert tip

Is the glue hard to remove? You can use a little SpeedUp X itself to soften the old layer. Another professional solution is to apply our EasyGlue glue (white version) over the old glue; its formula helps create a single film that makes removal easier without damaging the sponge.

Phase 2: applying it to the sponge

With the sponge clean and free of glue, let’s start the treatment. The 60ml bottle of SpeedUp X has an applicator nozzle (no spray here) and a safety cap.

Step by step

Application: draw a generous “X” of SpeedUp X on the sponge, covering the whole surface well.
Massage: cut a small piece of the applicator sponge provided and use it to spread and rub the product in well, pressing on the rubber’s sponge to help absorption.
Waiting time: unlike other boosters in the line, SpeedUp X has a high-viscosity formula, which means a longer curing time. Let it work for at least 12h, but the ideal is to wait 24h per coat for a complete effect. The sponge must be dry to the touch, with no trace of oil.

How many coats? We recommend 2 coats for the ideal result: power with the firmness intact. Went past 3? Good luck. You’ll need it.

360TT safety alert

The recommended limit is 3 coats at most. Go beyond that and you are no longer optimizing the rubber, you are challenging physics, and physics, historically, always wins.

Bubbles and lifting

As with any booster treatment, applying too many coats can increase the tension between the sponge and the top sheet, making bubbles more likely to appear. This risk is the same with any booster, regardless of the formula. What SpeedUp X reinforces is something else: the glue’s grip on the sponge, helping prevent it from coming loose on the underside with use. But that does not replace being careful with the number of coats.

Material sensitivity

SpeedUp X has an interesting profile precisely because it does not push the sponge to a single extreme:

Sensitive rubbers (European/Japanese): they are naturally softer already. The X helps keep them from becoming even looser, preserving response and control even with the gain in power.
Dense rubbers (Chinese/hard sponge): if you like the natural firmness of these rubbers, the X is excellent: it adds speed without softening what already works well.

Phase 3: professional assembly

Once the treatment is done, you will notice the rubber has curved, forming a dome. The rule here is the same as with SpeedUp 360: the higher the dome, the more tensioned and faster it has become.

When the sponge is dry to the touch and shows no trace of oil, it is ready to be glued.

The official recommendation: EasyGlue Carbon

To unlock 100% of SpeedUp X’s potential, the combination is essential: the stiffness of the carbon particles in EasyGlue Carbon complements the firmness preserved by the booster treatment, creating a setup with maximum speed and absolute precision.

Since SpeedUp X reinforces the glue’s grip on the sponge, successive coats of booster can make that grip more sensitive. If you have any trouble when gluing, contact our team. We are here to help.

Now it’s your turn. Assemble your racket, go to the table and feel the explosive power without losing precision on your very first attack. Enjoy your training!

At 360TT, it’s quality by players, for players.

SpeedUp X boosterHigh-viscosity 360TT booster: power without losing the rubber's firmness. 60ml bottle with applicator nozzle. Buy in the store →

SpeedUp 360 booster user manual

Tue, 06 Jan 2026 17:03:00 -0300

If you just scanned the QR code on the bottle of your new SpeedUp 360, congratulations: you now hold the right tool to unlock the full potential of your equipment. If you got here browsing the 360TT blog, get ready for a technical lesson.

We will show how our universal booster works (it acts on any brand or type of rubber, including pips!) and, most importantly, how to apply it safely so your racket does not become uncontrollable.

SpeedUp 360 is technology and science working for your game. But, like any high-performance tool, it requires method. Follow this guide to get a “national team level” result.

Phase 1: surgical preparation (cleaning)

Before thinking about speed, we need cleanliness. The booster has to penetrate the sponge, and layers of old glue are barriers that prevent even absorption.

New rubbers: they usually come ready. You can skip to Phase 2.
Used rubbers: you must remove 100% of the old glue from the sponge.

Expert tip

Is the glue hard to remove? You can use a little SpeedUp 360 itself to soften the old layer. Another professional solution is to apply our EasyGlue glue (white version) over the old glue; its formula helps create a single film that makes removal easier without damaging the sponge.

Phase 2: applying it to the sponge

With the sponge clean and free of glue, let’s start the treatment. A bottle of SpeedUp 360 goes a long way: it treats up to 10 rubbers (one coat) or up to 6 rubbers (two coats).

Step by step

Application: spray an even coat of 8 to 12 sprays onto the sponge.
Massage: cut a small piece of the applicator sponge provided. Spread and rub the product well, pressing on the rubber’s sponge to help absorption.
Waiting time: let it work until there is no visible trace of the product. The sponge should be “dry to the touch”. This usually takes 12 to 24 hours.

Want more speed? Once it is completely dry, if you want even more speed, apply a second coat following the same process.

360TT safety alert

Don’t get carried away! We do not recommend more than 15 sprays per coat, or more than 3 consecutive coats. If you overdo it, the rubber can become excessively fast and almost uncontrollable. Balance is the secret.

Material sensitivity

Rubbers react in different ways:

Sensitive rubbers (soft European/Japanese): they react quickly. They may be ready in less than 12 hours, as long as there are no traces on the sponge.
Dense rubbers (Chinese): hard sponges are less permeable. They may need a longer wait and, sometimes, more coats to reach the ideal effect.

Phase 3: the secret trick (reviving the top sheet)

SpeedUp 360 is not only for the sponge. It also revitalizes the surface (top sheet), restoring grip to a rubber that already feels tired.

Deep cleaning: clean the surface thoroughly with our SpinUp cleaner to remove sweat and grease.
Light application: apply only 3 to 5 sprays of SpeedUp 360 to the rubber, spreading it well.
Don’t rub: just spread it gently.
Rest: let it work for a few hours until no trace of the product remains on the top sheet.

Phase 4: professional assembly

Once the treatment is done, you will notice the rubber has curved, forming a “dome”. The rule is simple: the higher the dome, the more tensioned and faster it has become.

When the sponge is dry to the touch and shows no traces of oil, it is ready to be glued. But note: gluing a tensioned (curved) rubber requires a glue that can hold it.

The official recommendation: EasyGlue Green

To finish the setup in style, we strongly recommend EasyGlue Green. Why?

Catapult effect: Green creates an elastic layer that produces a “spring effect”, boosting the work done by the booster even further.
Reliable grip: it was designed to keep a secure bond even under tension, so the effect lasts longer.
Optimized performance: we recommend 3 or more coats of EasyGlue Green on the rubber to get the most out of this potential.

If the rubber is very curved and you have trouble gluing it, contact our team. We are here to help.

Now it’s your turn. Assemble your racket, go to the table and feel the difference on your first drive. Enjoy your training!

At 360TT, it’s quality by players, for players.

SpeedUp 360 boosterUniversal 360TT booster: works on any brand or type of rubber, including pips. Treats up to 10 rubbers per bottle. Buy in the store →

You Don't Need Your Idol's Rubber (and Clóvis de Barros Explains Why)

Tue, 25 Nov 2025 01:20:00 -0300

I’m a huge fan of Professor Clóvis de Barros Filho. Recently, watching a video of his about values and decisions, my mind blew up and went straight to table tennis. The philosophy is his, but the analogy here is mine, and it explains exactly why choosing equipment hurts so much.

Choosing equipment is agonizing. You walk into our store and see rubbers at R$ 80.00 and rubbers at R$ 800.00. The natural tendency is to think: “If the R$ 800.00 one is what Hugo Calderano uses, it must be the best. If I want to be good, I need it.”

The problem is that, thinking this way, you fall into a classic “context” mistake.

The wrong “answer key”

Professor Clóvis explains that, to give value to something (an exam grade, a soccer player), we need to compare it with a reference, an ideal “answer key” (the gabarito). If we say Neymar is a star, it’s because we compare him with the idea of a perfect player.

The problem with the amateur table tennis player is that he usually uses the wrong answer key.

You look at Hugo Calderano or Ma Long as your “perfect 10” reference. Automatically, you conclude that the “perfect 10” equipment is what they use.

Note

When I say “Calderano’s rubber,” take it as a metaphor for any elite equipment used by your idols. The point here is not the brand, it’s the concept of using professional material without having the professional “touch.”

You buy the fastest, most expensive rubber on the market thinking you’re making the best possible choice (“the chocolate cake,” as Clóvis says), but you forget to look at where you’re going to eat that cake.

Army vs. nursing home: where do you play?

Here comes the brilliant part of the reasoning, which I adapted for us. Clóvis compares two places with opposite values: the army and the nursing home.

In the army, the supreme value is discipline. If the bugle sounds at 5 a.m., the right thing is to get up. In the nursing home, on the other hand, the supreme value is rest. If the bugle sounds at 5 a.m., nobody hears it, and that’s fine. The good life there is the peaceful life.

(Before moving on, a heads-up: when I say “nursing home,” I’m not making a reference to old age, but to the concept of a place where the supreme value is rest and tranquility, as opposed to military rigidity.)

Now, bring that to the table:

Your idol’s context (the army): he trains 8 hours a day, has an elite physique and perfect technique. The value there is maximum speed and surgical precision. His rubber charges that price: it demands absolute technical discipline. If your movement is late by milliseconds, the ball goes into the wall.
Your context (the nursing home/club): you play two or three times a week, you want to improve and have fun. The supreme value here is not suicidal speed; it’s control, consistency and forgiveness.

Using “your idol’s rubber” at your current level is like waking up at 5 a.m. blowing a bugle inside a nursing home. You have the “right” attitude (top-end equipment), but in the wrong place (a technical and physical level that doesn’t match). The result is chaos: balls in the net, balls blasted into the wall and frustration.

The realistic solution

Table tennis, just like life, doesn’t have a single answer key. For our context of learning and improvement, the “perfect 10” is not the Tenergy or the Dignics. It’s the rubber that talks to your current technique.

As the official DHS distributor in Brazil, I use the PF4-50 as my example. There are countless other rubbers on the market that would fit this analogy, but I mention this one because I see many players ignore it out of prejudice, often just because it’s cheap, thinking that, because it costs little, it’s a slow, bad or “dead” rubber.

That’s not true. Being very realistic: a rubber like the PF4-50 supports you comfortably up to the Absoluto B level in Brazil, maybe more…

It combines the best of both worlds: it has the tacky (sticky) top sheet to generate plenty of spin on the serve and the drive, but it also has the #50 sponge, which is elastic and soft, and that makes it a hybrid rubber. It delivers speed when you attack, but offers the control that the professional rubber denies you.

DHS PF4-50Hybrid rubber with a tacky top sheet and an elastic, soft #50 sponge: spin on the serve and the drive, with control. Visit the store →

For an amateur, this rubber has more practical value than a R$ 500.00 rubber, because it gives you the confidence you need to do the most important thing: win the point.

The illusion of “magic”

To wrap up, I’m going back to Clóvis. He pokes fun at those self-help books that promise “50 tips to be happy forever.” Obviously that doesn’t exist, but we buy the illusion.

In table tennis, buying the most expensive rubber on the shelf thinking it will fix your drive and win you the game is exactly the same illusion. It’s trying to buy success without going through the process.

As the professor says when he closes: “we are handing back to you the task of taking the reins of your own life”.

Take the reins of your own improvement. Stop trying to “buy” Calderano’s game.

Tenha Brio! (Roughly: “Have spirit!” Did you catch the reference?)

Choose equipment that is consistent with your level, train for real and improve within your reality. When you’re “in the army” (advanced level), then yes, we’ll swap the ammunition.

Now I want to hear from you: which rubber are you using today? Does it talk to your current technique, or is it your idol’s? Tell us here in the comments.

Reference: video “As Decisões Dependem Dos Valores | Clóvis de Barros” (watch here).

Why Is Your Glue Water-Based Today? The "Speed Glue" Crisis

Fri, 31 Oct 2025 17:56:00 -0300

If you’re a veteran player, you probably remember the smell. A strong, chemical smell that took over every competition hall. If you’re a newer player, maybe you’ve heard people talk with nostalgia about the “click”, the iconic sound the racket made in the 80s and 90s.

That smell and that sound came from the same place: “speed glue”. For decades, it was the elite’s secret for generating absurd speed and spin. But it was also at the center of a health crisis that forced table tennis to change forever.

To understand why your TENSOR rubber is so elastic and why your glue is water-based today, we need to tell this story. Our analysis is largely based on a fantastic historical article by Jens Fellke, the author of the Jan-Ove Waldner biography (“When the Feeling Decides”). In a report for USA Table Tennis Magazine (Mar/Apr 2009), he detailed this saga.

Chapter 1: the magical “click” (the discovery)

The story begins by accident in the 70s with the Hungarian player Tibor Klampar. During a practice session, frustrated with his game, he peeled off his rubber and glued on a new one. He didn’t like it, peeled it off again and re-glued the original. Suddenly, he heard a “click”.

Klampar realized that his original rubber was suddenly much faster and had more spin. He had found the jackpot: applying fresh glue with volatile solvents (VOCs) before playing “supercharged” the rubber. The game became faster and more aggressive, allowing the famous topspin-against-topspin rallies with players meters away from the table.

Chapter 2: the hysteria and the dark side

Klampar kept his secret for more than a year. But once it was discovered, the table tennis world changed. Gluing became a “hysteria”.

The ritual was to apply coat after coat of glue before every practice and every match, sometimes six times a day. Players traveled with cans of highly flammable glue smuggled in their suitcases.

🤓 360TT technical view: the real risk

The problem was health. The solvents were toxic. Fellke’s article cites several alarming incidents:

A player in Scotland passed out after spilling a jar of glue and inhaling the fumes.
Doctors warned about neurological risks, headaches, concentration problems and even a link to birth defects.
The situation got so serious that doctors advised athletes to wear gas masks while gluing.

The legendary Stellan Bengtsson had a famous story: he told of parents arriving to pick up their beginner kids at the club and seeing the main team’s players wearing gas masks, thinking they had walked into a “chemical warfare exercise”. The sport’s image was being seriously damaged.

Chapter 3: the ban and the modern era

The ITTF tried to ban speed glue in 1993, but failed. Pressure from players and the lack of a reliable test made the federation back down.

However, the pressure for a “green” and safe sport continued. In 2004, the ITTF voted for a definitive ban on all solvents (VOCs), a rule that took effect on September 1, 2008, right after the Beijing Olympics.

Chapter 4: the solutions (today’s game)

The ban created a vacuum. How do you get speed without speed glue? The industry, which was already preparing for this, answered with two innovations that define today’s game:

“Tensioned” rubbers (TENSOR / High Tension): manufacturers such as ESN (with TENSOR technology) and Butterfly (High Tension) figured out how to put the “spring effect” in from the factory, inside the rubber. They come “supercharged” permanently and safely.
VOC-Free glues (water-based): the new glues, safe and approved by the ITTF, were created. They are 100% water-based and their job is no longer to “supercharge”, but to fix the tensioned rubber to the blade as efficiently as possible.

360TT expert analysis

The speed glue era was exciting, but it was a “chemical war” that fortunately ended. It changed the game forever, forcing the sport to become faster and more athletic.

It’s even a little ironic to look at how the market has evolved. In the 90s, many of us used classic rubbers like the Yasaka Mark V with a 2.5mm sponge. With speed glue, that sponge swelled and easily reached 2.7mm. Curiously, one of the biggest releases of 2025, the Butterfly Zyre-03, is treated as a major innovation precisely because it has a sponge of… 2.7mm. The sport has come full circle.

Fortunately, today we no longer need gas masks. Performance now comes from the technology built into the rubbers (TENSOR) and from modern glues that, besides being safe and 100% within the rules, also help performance. Solutions like EasyGlue Green and EasyGlue Carbon (with its carbon technology) are the best example of this evolution: maximum performance, with total safety and respect for the current rules.

Now I want to hear from you: did you live through the speed glue era? What is your memory of the “click”? Tell me here in the comments.

Discover the full EasyGlue glue line

Table Tennis Serve: 5 Tips to Surprise Your Opponent (and the Equipment That Helps)

Wed, 22 Oct 2025 20:24:00 -0300

The serve in table tennis is your first attack and the most controlled stroke a player has. Unlike any other moment of the game, you have complete control over it, with no interference from your opponent.

The main goal of a good serve is to disrupt your opponent, pulling them out of their comfort zone and, ideally, either winning the point outright or setting up a decisive attack. If you can turn your first attack into a powerful play, your whole game becomes much stronger, because your opponent will constantly worry about what you’ll do next.

Here are 5 essential tips to improve your serve and catch your opponent by surprise.

TL;DR: the serve is the only stroke you fully control, and surprise comes from disguising the spin, varying the height of the toss and forcing your opponent to move. Since most points are decided in the first three balls, set up the next attack and keep the no-spin serve as a lethal weapon. The right equipment amplifies spin and control, and training with targets and multiball completes the package.

5 tactical tips to surprise your opponent

1. Master the art of disguise (variation is key)

The essence of a surprising serve is illusion. A serve that is always obvious and telegraphed won’t fool experienced players, making your opponent’s return easy.

The secret is to make your serves, even with different spins and speeds, look identical until the last second. Use a semicircular motion (down, sideways and up) and accelerate into the contact. That way, your opponent won’t be able to tell which part of the arc the contact happened on, making it harder to read the spin (backspin, sidespin or topspin).

Of course, an “obvious” serve can be used on purpose, to set your opponent up for a variation on the next play. What can’t happen is for it to be obvious because of a lack of technique.

360TT tip

Exaggerate the racket’s follow-through in the direction opposite to the intended spin (for example, finish downward for a topspin serve, or upward for a backspin serve).

2. Use a high toss to break the rhythm

Although the rule requires a minimum toss of 16 cm, there is no maximum height. Varying the height of the toss is a powerful tactic to confuse your opponent’s timing.

A serve with a high toss can take a few seconds for the ball to come down. If you repeatedly use a high toss and suddenly serve with a minimum toss, your opponent, who expected more time, may have muscles unprepared for the quick movement. Besides, a higher toss makes the ball fall faster, which can be turned into extra spin and speed at contact.

3. Mix short and long, aiming at the extreme points

Ball placement is a crucial tactical element. The goal is to force your opponent to move, pulling them out of their comfort base. Even if it’s just one step, that forced movement already hurts the quality of the return.

One of the best combinations is to alternate between short serves to the forehand and deep serves to the backhand (the extreme points of the table), since it’s hard for the receiver to prepare for both.

Short serves: the bounce should land close to the net, making a full-motion attack difficult.
Long serves: fast and aimed at the corners, they are effective as a surprise.

360TT tip

One particularly effective placement, which contrasts with the extremes, is to aim at your opponent’s middle (the elbow of the racket hand). When the ball is played there, your opponent is forced to make a quick decision (use forehand or backhand), which hurts the consistency of the stroke.

4. Set the stage for a fierce attack

Remember: in high-level matches, the majority of all points are won in the first three balls. The serve and the first return are the most important shots.

Your serve will be ten times more threatening if it is followed by a vigorous attack. If your playing style is offensive, short serves let you apply a topspin (attacking stroke) on the next ball, taking the initiative and preventing your opponent’s first offensive action.

5. Master the no-spin serve

The no-spin serve (with no spin on the ball) is a lethal variation. You can imitate the motion of a backspin serve but, instead of brushing the ball, make contact close to the handle (where the surface moves more slowly) and simply push the ball gently.

Your opponent, expecting backspin, will probably lift the ball, handing you an easy attack. If they expect topspin and close the racket, the ball goes straight into the net.

How the right equipment improves your serve

Technique is fundamental, but to get the most spin and control, the right equipment works as an amplifier. Based on the tactics above, here is what you need to know:

1. To generate maximum spin (tips 1 and 4)

You need rubbers with a tacky top sheet (upper surface). Chinese rubbers are famous for this trait, letting you “grab” the ball and generate extreme rotation, essential for disguising the spin or executing the no-spin serve.

Our recommendation: take a look at the DHS Hurricane or the PF4-50 lines, which are masters at generating spin.

2. To keep the serve short and low (tip 3)

Control is everything. Rubbers that, by nature, help keep a lower and deeper ball trajectory (especially harder Chinese rubbers) make it easier to execute serves that are hard to counterattack. Combined with a blade with good feel (control), you’ll have the sensitivity needed to make the ball “die” on your opponent’s side of the table.

Our recommendation: explore our 5-ply or 7-ply blades that prioritize control and sensitivity.

3. To ensure consistency (the “do it yourself” factor)

The quality of your gluing directly affects the feel of your racket. Using a quality glue, like 360TT EasyGlue, ensures an even layer and the perfect adhesion so that the rubber performs exactly as expected.

Our recommendation: learn to glue your own racket. Check out our EasyGlue glue and the SpinUp Cleaner to keep your equipment at competition performance.

Bonus: tools for focused training

Improving your serve takes repetition.

Targets (target zones): use tape or markings on the table to define specific areas (lines, corners, elbow). Mastering placement is what separates high-level players.
Multiball training (robots or basket): this is the best way to train serve and receive technique. With a basket of balls, you can focus 100% on executing the motion, refining speed, spin and direction without interruptions.

Conclusion: practice and surprise

A good serve is built with repetition and intention. Start by choosing one or two of these tactics to train in a focused way. You’ll see how, in a short time, your confidence to start the point will grow and your opponents will get more and more uncomfortable.

Now I want to hear from you: which of these 5 tips will you train first? Leave a comment below!

Discover the rubbers at the 360TT store

Hurricane 8 on the Backhand: The Secret Weapon of Wang Chuqin and Sun Yingsha!

Mon, 06 Oct 2025 02:12:00 -0300

It’s not a trend anymore, it’s a reality. Chen Meng, Wang Chuqin and the world number 1, Sun Yingsha. The names at the top of the world rankings share a secret on the backhand: the DHS Hurricane 8. In a move that breaks decades of paradigms, the Chinese elite is rewriting the rules of the backhand game, and here at 360TT we took a deep look at this news.

The change forced by the 40+ ball

Historically, the backhand has always been the territory of European and Japanese tensor rubbers: fast, elastic and less demanding physically. However, the introduction of the 40+ plastic ball changed the game. The ball became slower and heavier, requiring athletes to generate much more power and spin on their own, even on the backhand. It was this new reality that opened the door to a Chinese solution.

What makes the H8 special for the backhand

Many people think of the H8 as a “softer Hurricane 3”, but the truth is more complex. It was designed from the start to be a weapon in the 40+ era, with unique characteristics.

A unique balance: the Hurricane 8 is a high-tack, high-elasticity rubber, keeping a perfect balance between flexibility and elastic strength.
The #25 sponge: its high-elasticity, micro-porous sponge is more elastic than the classic #20 sponge of the H3, which contributes to better support and superior “ball depth” (power on long strokes).
Activation with moderate force: this is the secret. The H8 is better suited to players with moderate strength. That doesn’t mean weak players, but rather that it doesn’t demand the full, explosive biomechanics of a forehand to “activate” its properties, making it ideal for the more compact, faster movements of the modern backhand.

The protagonists of the revolution

The final proof of the Hurricane 8’s effectiveness is in the rackets of the best players in the world. Each of them uses it to maximize their own playing style.

Chen Meng (陈梦)

The Olympic champion uses the NEO Hurricane 8 with 2.1mm sponge thickness and 37 degrees hardness. This setup lets her execute an overpowering backhand, with a heavy ball trajectory, loaded with spin and continuous power.

Wang Chuqin (王楚钦)

One of the biggest stars of today, Wang Chuqin opts for the NEO Hurricane 8 with 2.1mm sponge thickness and 38 degrees hardness. The extra hardness in his rubber is the mark of an ultra-aggressive backhand game, looking to finish points with maximum speed and impact.

Sun Yingsha (孙颖莎)

The definitive confirmation of this revolution comes from the racket of the world number 1. Sun Yingsha’s adoption of the Hurricane 8 on the backhand validates this rubber as the top choice for a modern, aggressive and versatile game, tested and approved at the very top of the sport.

The expert’s conclusion

The rise of the Hurricane 8 on the Chinese elite’s backhand is no accident. It is a smart tactical response to the demands of modern table tennis. For the advanced player who wants to generate their own power, attack with heavy spin and dictate the pace of the point with the backhand, the H8 has stopped being an alternative and become the new standard of champions.

Now I want to hear from you: have you ever tried a Chinese rubber on the backhand? Tell us in the comments how it went.

Ready to use the same weapon as Sun Yingsha, Chen Meng and Wang Chuqin? The DHS Hurricane 8 is waiting for you at 360TT.

DHS Hurricane 8The high-tack, high-elasticity Chinese rubber that the elite uses on the backhand. Visit the store →

Let's Talk About Boosters?

Sat, 27 Sep 2025 17:26:00 -0300

At the 2020 Brazilian Championships in Rio de Janeiro, a young player asked me:

“Auad, what is booster and what is it for?”

After I explained it, he asked me why this kind of information wasn’t known by every table tennis player. That’s when I decided to write about the subject.

TL;DR: booster is an oil that expands the sponge and makes the rubber faster. European and Japanese rubbers already come with factory booster, and the ITTF rule only requires a maximum thickness of 4mm and no VOC. In 2019 tests, the ITTF caught players who sanded their blades to hide rubbers up to 4.18mm thick: every booster increases thickness, and more thickness means up to 10% more performance. But the opposite is also unfair: a rubber that has lost its factory booster plays worse. Within the rules, booster only brings benefits; see how often to reapply it.

What booster is and how to use it

Definition of booster: it is an oil that, when applied correctly and properly to the sponge (and/or the top sheet, but that is a subject for another time…) of a table tennis rubber, expands it and makes it more responsive. In other words, it makes it faster.

Definition of oil: substances in a viscous liquid state at ambient conditions. Oils are hydrophobic (they don’t mix with water, which is why there is no water-based glue with booster) and lipophilic (they form a homogeneous mixture with other oils). They can be of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin. In the world table tennis market there are basically two types of booster: mineral-based and vegetable-based.

Now that you know what booster is, let’s look at how to use it. Booster must be applied to the rubber’s sponge (it can also be used on pips rubbers), and then you have to wait for it to work. A single coat of booster normally takes 12 to 24 hours to act, depending on factors such as the booster’s viscosity, its origin (vegetable, mineral, etc.), the type of sponge (porous or not) and the sponge’s hardness. Room temperature and humidity can slightly change the time it takes, but I consider that difference negligible.

Booster makes the sponge “grow” in every direction, and since the top sheet doesn’t grow along with it, the rubber bends toward the top sheet side.

Now, to keep it very simple: if we only thought about using booster on new rubbers, the subject would end here and the only use would be to make the rubber faster (a little softer and launching the ball higher). But it is not quite that simple…

What the ITTF says about booster

The ITTF says in its rulebook: “Racket coverings must be used without any physical, chemical or other treatment.” (ITTF Handbook, rule 2.4.7). That makes the subject controversial, but in practice it allows the use of any rubber listed on the LARC (List of Authorised Racket Coverings) that does not exceed 4mm in thickness (including the glue layer) and does not release VOC.

The ITTF doesn’t worry about booster use, because it fenced everything in with the two rules I mentioned above: a 4mm thickness limit and no VOC release. Many rubbers already come close to that 4mm maximum, leaving no room for much booster, except those that are not tensioned, such as Chinese rubbers.

Factory booster: what nobody tells you

What the ITTF doesn’t say, and neither do manufacturers, is that tensioned European and Japanese rubbers released since 2007 come treated with booster from the factory. Some more, some less, but all of them have it. That changes our whole perspective on using booster.

The booster in the sponge, whether from the factory or applied by the player, does not last the whole life of the rubber. It is used up with play (the impact of the ball), and the harder you hit, the faster it is used up. Although we always talk about booster durability in days or months, the right way to measure it would be in hours of play. In my experience, based on the rubbers that come with the most factory booster, it is completely used up within 40 to 50 hours of play at most, and in some cases much sooner.

In Brazil, because of the high dollar and absurd import taxes, rubbers are very expensive and we end up using the same rubber for months, sometimes for a year or more. As a result, after some time all the factory booster is used up and the rubber no longer has the “tension” of a new one, losing a good part of its performance. The more booster a rubber receives at the factory, the more it will lose. Note: rubbers made in Japan are generally the ones that receive the least booster at the factory and, consequently, lose less performance once it is gone.

You can confirm that rubbers receive booster at the factory by the smell some of them give off when new, and also by how much they shrink relative to the blade after being peeled off following some time of use.

Think of a bicycle: a solid wheel, usually metal, and a rubber tire. For that tire to work properly, it has to be inflated with a certain amount of air. When a tire goes flat, do we replace the tire or simply put back the air that was lost? Right: we grab a pump and fill it up again, or take the bike to a gas station and set the tire to the right pressure for use. Bringing the example to table tennis, the racket is the wheel and the rubber is the tire. When the rubber’s air/booster “goes flat”, we can replenish it to give that rubber back its factory tension/speed. To me, this is the best use of booster and there is no reason for it to be “illegal”. Quite the opposite: it should be encouraged, because it is a practice that gives the rubber a longer life and, consequently, means less waste on the planet.

The ITTF test in 2019

In December 2020, the ITTF held a webinar on YouTube about table tennis equipment. One of the topics was the use of booster, which they call After Treatments.

In 2019, after the Croatia and Poland Opens and the Team World Cup in Tokyo, they selected some players to have their rubbers peeled off, with no consequences for the player in case of non-compliance. The players themselves removed the rubbers, always after their last match of the tournament. The choice of player was based on the racket test, where the assessing umpire had doubts about the result.

Curiously, they caught several players tampering with their blades to allow more booster on the rubber, thereby defrauding the thickness test.

Important

It is important to clarify that every booster increases the thickness of the rubber: the rubber grows on all sides, including in thickness. And if it has more thickness, it gains performance. It is well known in the table tennis world that a rubber with a 2.2mm sponge is faster than one with 2.0mm, which is faster than one with 1.8mm, and so on.

The evidence found on the rackets

They found evidence on the rackets such as:

Sealant near the handle.
A dent in the rubber where the measuring device rests.
Very low thickness readings, like 3.58mm, on rackets of world-class players.
Thickness divergence measured with a magnifying glass.
The top veneer of the blade sanded at the point where the measuring device rests.
The appearance of the rubber’s top sheet showing the use of booster.

In measurements after disassembly, they found rubbers up to 4.18mm thick. Below is the measuring device used to measure the thickness of the rubbers after disassembly:

This extra thickness delivers up to 10% more performance compared to a rubber within the 4mm limit. Those rackets passed the normal thickness test with the racket assembled, because the blades had been severely prepared for it.

Below are some images:

From the images, the players caught were using Chinese rubber or were Chinese. Since the list of players was not disclosed, it is not possible to know exactly.

At the beginning of these tests there were heated discussions, but after they explained that the goal was to protect honest players from cheaters, reactions were positive.

What the ITTF concluded

After these tests, they realized that the performance advantage for a player using rubbers thicker than 4mm was enormous and equality among players would not be guaranteed that way. The players even suggested raising the thickness limit, a sign that they are still chasing performance through their rubbers and that simply switching to a faster blade would not solve it in this case.

And when the factory booster runs out?

That was a case of cheating to get better performance, and that is what racket control is for. But let’s flip the situation: a rubber whose performance has dropped because its factory booster has already been used up is also a factor of inequality. In that case, with the goal of restoring the factory tension, booster should be widely used, especially if the following conditions are met:

The European/Japanese rubber has been used for at least around 40 hours and still has usable grip on the top sheet.
Booster is not harmful to health, so the racket passes the tests as long as it is within the 4mm thickness limit.
Booster contains no VOC, so the racket passes the tests.

If the rubber is Chinese and does not have a porous sponge, such as the GoldArc (made in Germany), it was developed to be used with booster, and this is simply not said openly for commercial reasons. So use it from new, as long as it does not exceed the 4mm limit and the booster does not contain VOC.

Benefits of using booster

It is ecologically responsible, because rubbers will last longer and far fewer of them will be thrown into nature.
Your used rubber returns to factory tension/performance one or more times until the grip fades and it has to be replaced. Playing with a used rubber stays enjoyable for much longer, as if it were new.
The rubber’s spin/speed potential is kept for much longer.
If you bought a used rubber and it did not fit your blade because it had shrunk, booster can bring it back to its original size. After using booster on a shrunken rubber, it is normal for it to grow 0.5cm or even more around its entire circumference.
If you don’t play official tournaments, you can supercharge your racket and make it more pleasant and faster to play and have fun with.
You feel the ball better on a rubber whose factory booster has been replenished. The feel is spectacular.
The sound of the rubber gets much better, reminding you a little of the sound of speed glue.
The rubber lifts the ball more, which is great for attacking.

Tips for use

Now that I have probably convinced you that using booster is not wrong — on the contrary, it should be encouraged — let me give you some usage tips. If you train every day, replenish the booster every 30 days; otherwise, every 2 months. Prefer a booster that is very efficient, lets you control the amount applied, is not harmful to health and has no smell, has a physiological pH (it doesn’t harm the skin) and has technical support from the manufacturer. Our SpeedUp 360 offers all of that, plus an instruction manual via QR Code, an applicator sponge, and my regular technical support.

SpeedUp 360 boosterUniversal 360TT booster: works on any brand or type of rubber, including pips. Treats up to 10 rubbers per bottle. Visit the store →

Oh, and booster can (should?) also be used on the top sheet, but that is a subject for another time.

Now I want to hear from you: do you use booster? How often do you reapply it? Tell me in the comments.

Discover the 360TT boosters